Chapter 11

IV. District.

Újpest: name of a district in Budapest; originally a compound word consisting of Új /new/ and Pest. Thus, it could be translated as Newpest. The etymology of the word shows evidence that this district, among many others, has been annexed later to the capital. It has a rich history that reaches back into the 19. century. It was the realm of vineyards, leatherworkers, and joiners. The vicinity of the Danube provided plenty of trading opportunities. After that, in the turn of the century, industry came into the picture. Leather was still an important factor, but factories producing light bulbs, mining machines, and cotton yarn became important as well. At that time Újpest was still a separate township, mostly served not only as an industrial center but also provided accommodations for the citizens of Pest.

Then came the communism. Was it that bad? Hard to tell. Újpest was attached to Budapest in 1950 and it got labeled as district number 4. (You may notice that districts from number 1 to 9 are all inner city ones except for the 4th. This is due to the decision made in 1950; the former 4th district merged with the 5th.) The communist leaders always supported the working class, and Újpest being as working class as possible still didn’t get that much of an attention. The renovations started only in the 70’s because of the construction of the Metro line 3. Still, it did get rsome make-up eventually, the end product is clearly there; people are to judge whether it was beneficial or not.

After the Communist era most of the plants were closed down. Familiar? In the other end of the city Csepel had the same story. Peripheral areas seem to have a lot in common. Or do they?

Újpest seems to manage better. Perhaps it is due to the fact that it didn’t rely solely on heavy industry. Perhaps it is the higher level of education; there are many high schools of all kind in that district. Maybe it’s the kind of religious devotedness; Újpest has many churches for various religions. Perchance it is the Megyeri bridge (a.k.a. Colbert híd http://www.colbertnation.com/the-colbert-report-collections/262169/classic-colbert---the-hungarian-bridge ) that connects the 4th district with others. I do not know, however, I know that these people show an example for us all. Get off the ground and fight.

Chapter 10

XIII. District.

It always occurred to me that the 13th district works as an autonomy. When you walk on its streets and finally get to the “town square” you have the impression that you are a couple of kilometers from Budapest in a town run by a separate local government. I couldn’t quite grasp the reason why and thought that it was my own nonsensical daydream. However, when the elections came and this was the only district in Budapest (and practically in the whole country) which reelected the old, socialist mayor, I kept wondering. Is there a certain degree of isolation here?

I know, I always make statements that include some thought about the occlusion of a certain area. However, this time, it was different. As I rode my bike on the streets it started to make sense. Other districts represent stereotypes. The Vár is a very high class, very secluded area. Zugló is an easy-going suburbian region. Downtown with districts 6 and 7 are home of the intellectuals and the 8th district has its dual quality. However, these aforementioned places are all flat, one dimensional. Zugló is great for recreation but there are no job opportunities. The inner districts offer many workplaces (for the middle and upper class) but the numbers of sleeping quarters are limited. And the Vár is basically a frosting on a cake; pretty yet has no practical use whatsoever aside from the tourists.

If we examine the map we will find that the 13th district on the other hand has many advantages. It is neighboring the inner districts, namely the 5th and 6th. This means that it has some connection with the vivid social life of downtown. The town central is not far, can be easily reached. It is also has common borders with district 14th. This means that it is close to the quiet, green realm of the suburbs. The neighbor affects the 13th‘s eastern parts: trees and grass are all over the place. It offers peace and tranquility. To the north lie the tall projects of the 4th district, compared to that the 13th is a metropolis. As a bonus, the Danube borders the area from the west, connecting it to the waterways. The conclusion? Whereas other districts are particularly strong in only one sense the 13th district manages in many fields. It doesn’t excel, yet it is potent, and that is something the other areas can’t say for themselves. No wonder that the hypothetical rearrangement of the city leaves it as it is. It may not have any flashy features; in fact, it has worn-down streets and buildings as well. However, that is exactly the point: it is self sustainable, it deals with its own filth. It is stable and that is the most important for its residents at the moment. Let’s hope the other districts will watch and learn.

Chapter 9

This post differs from the previous ones; it concerns less with actual, individual districts and more with all of them. However, I felt this was appropriate because it is a recent issue. Politics will be not discussed here, nevertheless I must yield to the fact that Fidesz, the major right wing party in Hungary, was elected and they have a different kind of policy on the districts, or so they say. You must know that Hungary has a large number of offices concerning with villages, towns, and cities. In fact, the local governments are so many and so complicated that it drains horrible amounts of funds. This has been a problem for ages, now the new government whishes to cut the budget and axe the expenses. What does this mean and how does it affect Budapest? Nobody is sure; however, let us contemplate on this issue a bit.

You may know that Budapest has 23 districts and compared to Berlin, Hamburg, or any other major city of Western Europe that’s a lot. Some districts are to be merged. But which ones? Of course, the future government has no official statement on this, however, quite a few speculations have emerged. I will show you the most popular.

According to the simulation there would be only 8 districts (Superdistricts, as some call them). The names may be somewhat derogatory, it is merely to coin the different areas.



- Elite Buda district. This would contain the districts 1, 2, and 12. More of an upper-class area with former districts such as the Vár.
- Northern Project district. Districts 3, 4, and 15 included. Somewhat a lower-class residency area with tall projects around.
- Újlipóca (13th district). The name would remain the same, as well as the district itself. It is so huge with its 110000 denizens that it needs no additional regions.
- Downtown. Basically, what the name suggests. Districts 5, 6, 7, and 8 are to be put in the melting pot. Makes sense? Definitely. Even today one may roam from one to another without noticing any difference.
- Worker’s quarters. Districts 9, 10, 19, 20. Similar to the Northern Project district, however, more specifically a working class area.
- Southern Pest. Uniting districts 17, 18, 23. This landscape shows more of a network of towns, than an actual part of Budapest. These districts include places like Rákoscsaba, Rákoscsaba-Újtelep, Rákosfalva, however the slang just calls them Rákosborzasztó, Rákos-awful, due to their remoteness and rural qualities.
- Southern Buda and Csepel. Again, not a high class residency, though it is neither the slums. Lower-middle class residents, condos, projects, houses, suburbs. Presently known as districts 11, 21, 22.
- Eastern Pest. The true suburbs, the vast greens of districts 14 and 16 could be drawn together. Home to the upper-middle class.


This is one simulation, there are many others. Again, nobody is certain of the future, how the map will be rewritten, if it is going to be rewritten. But change is needed. Until then let us enjoy our homes as they are.

Chapter 8

XXI. District.

Csepel. Red Csepel. If you google it you’ll probably get a bunch of links that will lead you to various pages on motorcycles, bicycles and engines. This is no coincidence. Even with Hungarian Google you are more likely to find pictures of good ol’ bike riding folk than the actual district. The reason is quite simple: It was here where the Csepel branded bikes were created. Not only bikes, though. During the communism Csepel became the heavy industrial center of Budapest; it had the widest range of products in Central-eastern Europe. Some of the products manufactured here even made it to Tibet. Csepel bikes are still popular today, a certain kind of nostalgic air is around them.

However, the Communist regime was banished, and many of its industrial enterprises were deemed to failure. Needless to say, the heavy industry had to go, and Csepel was left without its main income source. The huge industrial park is nowadays housing several businesses. The islanders (Csepel is the only district that is situated on an island, the Csepel Island), however, seemed to have a problem of breaking away from the past. Years after the Soviet occupation the residents were known to the country as the red remnants of the previous era. Clearly, the heavy industry based economics favored this area and people of Csepel always thought of those times as the ever-lost Golden Age. Speaking of the population, it is not complicated to figure out their sociological features; they mostly consist of working class citizens. The buildings accommodate to the people; tall concrete buildings cast their shadows upon the land. Even the lights were dimmer when I visited the district; although this was just due to the weather.

Still, a subtle, yet ever-present smell of Communism is in the air. Many of the country looked like this in the 80’s. I do not mean to harm the people of Csepel, I simply can’t escape from the impression. Cultural houses, hostels for workers, tones of gray. Their isolation is probably a major factor. Although there are several bus lines leading to the city, it is still hard to overcome the natural barrier: the Danube. Csepel was only annexed to Budapest in the 50’s, before that it was a separate town; the autonomy has left its marks and can be seen even today.

The people are either looking back at the past or are hoping for a better future. They are the ones who were struck by the crisis and probably they are the ones who will benefit the last from a booming economy. They are growing impatient. As I rode the bus I saw several stickers with ultra right winged messages. The people riding on the bus read right winged material. Red Csepel is about to turn its colors.

Chapter 7

I. District.

I have a confession to make. Although I did visit the Vár (Castle) a.k.a. 1st district as a child I had only some vague and blurry memories about the Fisherman’s Bastion. I thought that it was a few streets with churches, ruins, and museums. Thus, I was greatly surprised when I had to visit the area a few weeks earlier due to business. “There are actually people living here” I gasped. In my defense, when looking at the Castle from the Pest side you can only se the spectacular panorama provided by the Matthias Church, the Buda Castle and the like; one wouldn’t guess that residents do actually live there. Nevertheless, when I learned this I instantly decided to take a few pictures.

How could I describe the atmosphere? Majestic. If we leave the crowd of tourists behind and walk into the smaller streets (not that there were that many) we can sneak a peek of the citizens’ everyday life. Only a little bit of peeking is possible; the houses are designed to conceal the owners’ properties and ward off any attempt that would jeopardize their privacy. Did this sound pompous? No wonder, the air of the district affected me as well. Nonetheless, this is a section where people live so the basic utilities are present. If it weren’t for a couple of garbage bins and the locals using them one would wonder if they just evaporate their upper class litter. Fortunately they are humans as well with earthly needs. This gave me an idea. I decided to ride to the peripheral areas of the Vár. It is always the ends that are the messiest. Needless to say, this wasn’t my brightest idea. Instead of dirt or at least some suspicious looking fellows I found beautiful view.

Of course, for poverty one needs to look on lower grounds, not in the cultural headquarters of Hungary. Be it, but is this viable? The whole district is a bubble. A shiny, colorful bubble that is fragile and prone to debacle. It has huge walls on each side, cannons are watching the landscape; though the cannons don’t work anymore, we get the message: everyone else, stay out. Were they to close the gates, they wouldn’t last. They are the light, but without anybody holding the torch high they are useless.

The view is pretty sweet, though.

Chapter 6

Budaörs

Although at the beginning I said that I would examine Budapest and describe its various properties I will derive from the well-trodden path. Nothing serious, though, Budaörs is not far from the capital, it is part of the metropolitan area of Budapest. Still, it is not strictly within the boundaries of the city.

Budaörs, Wudersch in German, is a separate town with village-like features, lying among the Buda and Csiki hills and the Tétény plateau in the Budaörs-basin. Its population is about 27000, which is the average population of a small town in Hungary, and a giant for a village. The reason why I’m still referring to its rural qualities is the atmosphere. When you enter town limits you will find that although it is a couple of kilometers from Budapest the view drastically changes. Town square with church, restaurant, and grocery store. Otherwise houses, occasionally schools, parks, and trees rule the landscape.

When I say “village” those who live in Budaörs might be offended; they may accuse me of patronizing their hometown. Nevertheless, I have no such intention. In fact, I think Budaörs is a positive example for all the other townships in Hungary. Currently, more and more settlements gain the title of a town, without any reason whatsoever. Instead of this aggressive expansionism we should concentrate on the basic values.

What are the basic values of a town? The community. Without a strong and self-aware community townships will be either annihilated (the younger generations will flee to bigger cities), or just rot in their own bog. One of the advantages of Budaörs (aside from the obvious fact that it lies in the vicinity of Budapest) is that it has residents who have a strong cultural identity. In the 18th century Schwab peasants were settled in the area. Schwabs are people of German descent and are Hungary’s second largest minority. After WWII the communist regime banished them from the land, still, some of them remained there. Once you drive through the city you will find not only Hungarian but German signs as well. There are “Heimatmusems”, museums on the German ancestry, inns and hostels owned by Germans, and separate division for them in the mayor’s office along with many other minorities.

One would think that this diversity creates tension between the citizens. Clearly, it doesn’t. The interest of Hungarians are represented as well as of any other peoples. The key is tolerance, cooperation, and hard work; that is what made Budaörs the wealthiest town of Hungary.

Chapter 5

VI./VII. District.

You may have noticed that in my posts I try to grasp the qualities, the perks of a certain district, a certain area. Some are thought to be homogenous; the vast greens of the XIV. district. Some I described as bipolar; the inner and the peripheral premises of the VIII district. In this entry, however, I try to twist a bit on the proverbial screw; I will examine a couple of blocks of buildings which represent multiple aspects at the same time.

[Disclaimer: my original intention was to write only about the VII. district, a.k.a. Erzsébetváros. Yet, as I roamed the streets and took photographs I accidentally entered the VI. district, a.k.a. Terézváros. I found that my impressions qualified for both districts so I shall give them a single entry.]

Old and new. That is how I’d summarize the atmosphere I felt when entered Erzsébetváros and then walked to Terézváros. One can gaze upon ancient houses and then out of nowhere a newly constructed apartment complex pops up. When thinking of Budapest, and especially the traditional, historical parts, one imagines richly ornamented houses which tower above the passers-by. However, as in all cities around the world, progress is inevitable. This means that the old architecture style is being replaced with modern shapes and colors.

Both Terézváros and Erzsébetváros are one of the smallest districts; however, they host the most residents. This means that they have the highest density of population in Budapest; the leader is Erzsébetváros with 29 357 per km². All the above mentioned data lead to what I call the “New-York Effect”. There are no vacant lots to build on; however, there is a demand for more and more apartments. Thus, although these walls are markers of the previous centuries they are demolished and sacrificed on the altar of progress. New, modern office buildings and condos emerge, washing away the past and making room for the future.












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If the past-future collision is one axis on the Inner City’s coordinate system then the other axis is culture clash. The VII. district is famous of being the Jewish district in Budapest, in fact, it’s considered to be the Jewish district of Hungary. During and prior to WW II. the Jewish residents of the city were forced to live in ghettos. The ghetto was not more than 20 something blocks and one park, the outer walls were roughly equivalent to the limits of the VII. district. After the war a large portion of the Jewish community stayed among these walls, adding a unique flavor to the cultural stew.

We only need to take a walk on Dohány street and will see the largest synagogue in Eurasia and the second largest one in the world. Walking deeper into Erzsébetváros we’ll see signs of Jewish heritage; stores selling Torahs, kosher butchers, and other, smaller synagogues. What seems to be homogenous on first sight, however, turns out to be more varied under scrutiny.

On forums residents complain about the noise; the large number of pubs and their drunken patrons; the constant renovations and the disappearance of the old architectural themes. Yes, the aforementioned progress influenced the Jewish community as well. The only kosher food store that was in the vicinity was closed down recently. Sex shops and prostitutes satisfy those who seek the joys of flesh. The Turkish, the Arabs, and representatives of other Middle Eastern countries open their shops in downtown.











Solution? Accept change. It is inevitable. Everything undergoes this process, sometimes we just don’t see it. No matter how small or big, history will reshape everything; not a whole district, nor even Budapest is immune to the waves of time. Slowly, people will have understand and live with the fact that everything they knew is no more. Until then, enjoy it while you can.