Chapter 11

IV. District.

Újpest: name of a district in Budapest; originally a compound word consisting of Új /new/ and Pest. Thus, it could be translated as Newpest. The etymology of the word shows evidence that this district, among many others, has been annexed later to the capital. It has a rich history that reaches back into the 19. century. It was the realm of vineyards, leatherworkers, and joiners. The vicinity of the Danube provided plenty of trading opportunities. After that, in the turn of the century, industry came into the picture. Leather was still an important factor, but factories producing light bulbs, mining machines, and cotton yarn became important as well. At that time Újpest was still a separate township, mostly served not only as an industrial center but also provided accommodations for the citizens of Pest.

Then came the communism. Was it that bad? Hard to tell. Újpest was attached to Budapest in 1950 and it got labeled as district number 4. (You may notice that districts from number 1 to 9 are all inner city ones except for the 4th. This is due to the decision made in 1950; the former 4th district merged with the 5th.) The communist leaders always supported the working class, and Újpest being as working class as possible still didn’t get that much of an attention. The renovations started only in the 70’s because of the construction of the Metro line 3. Still, it did get rsome make-up eventually, the end product is clearly there; people are to judge whether it was beneficial or not.

After the Communist era most of the plants were closed down. Familiar? In the other end of the city Csepel had the same story. Peripheral areas seem to have a lot in common. Or do they?

Újpest seems to manage better. Perhaps it is due to the fact that it didn’t rely solely on heavy industry. Perhaps it is the higher level of education; there are many high schools of all kind in that district. Maybe it’s the kind of religious devotedness; Újpest has many churches for various religions. Perchance it is the Megyeri bridge (a.k.a. Colbert híd http://www.colbertnation.com/the-colbert-report-collections/262169/classic-colbert---the-hungarian-bridge ) that connects the 4th district with others. I do not know, however, I know that these people show an example for us all. Get off the ground and fight.

Chapter 10

XIII. District.

It always occurred to me that the 13th district works as an autonomy. When you walk on its streets and finally get to the “town square” you have the impression that you are a couple of kilometers from Budapest in a town run by a separate local government. I couldn’t quite grasp the reason why and thought that it was my own nonsensical daydream. However, when the elections came and this was the only district in Budapest (and practically in the whole country) which reelected the old, socialist mayor, I kept wondering. Is there a certain degree of isolation here?

I know, I always make statements that include some thought about the occlusion of a certain area. However, this time, it was different. As I rode my bike on the streets it started to make sense. Other districts represent stereotypes. The Vár is a very high class, very secluded area. Zugló is an easy-going suburbian region. Downtown with districts 6 and 7 are home of the intellectuals and the 8th district has its dual quality. However, these aforementioned places are all flat, one dimensional. Zugló is great for recreation but there are no job opportunities. The inner districts offer many workplaces (for the middle and upper class) but the numbers of sleeping quarters are limited. And the Vár is basically a frosting on a cake; pretty yet has no practical use whatsoever aside from the tourists.

If we examine the map we will find that the 13th district on the other hand has many advantages. It is neighboring the inner districts, namely the 5th and 6th. This means that it has some connection with the vivid social life of downtown. The town central is not far, can be easily reached. It is also has common borders with district 14th. This means that it is close to the quiet, green realm of the suburbs. The neighbor affects the 13th‘s eastern parts: trees and grass are all over the place. It offers peace and tranquility. To the north lie the tall projects of the 4th district, compared to that the 13th is a metropolis. As a bonus, the Danube borders the area from the west, connecting it to the waterways. The conclusion? Whereas other districts are particularly strong in only one sense the 13th district manages in many fields. It doesn’t excel, yet it is potent, and that is something the other areas can’t say for themselves. No wonder that the hypothetical rearrangement of the city leaves it as it is. It may not have any flashy features; in fact, it has worn-down streets and buildings as well. However, that is exactly the point: it is self sustainable, it deals with its own filth. It is stable and that is the most important for its residents at the moment. Let’s hope the other districts will watch and learn.

Chapter 9

This post differs from the previous ones; it concerns less with actual, individual districts and more with all of them. However, I felt this was appropriate because it is a recent issue. Politics will be not discussed here, nevertheless I must yield to the fact that Fidesz, the major right wing party in Hungary, was elected and they have a different kind of policy on the districts, or so they say. You must know that Hungary has a large number of offices concerning with villages, towns, and cities. In fact, the local governments are so many and so complicated that it drains horrible amounts of funds. This has been a problem for ages, now the new government whishes to cut the budget and axe the expenses. What does this mean and how does it affect Budapest? Nobody is sure; however, let us contemplate on this issue a bit.

You may know that Budapest has 23 districts and compared to Berlin, Hamburg, or any other major city of Western Europe that’s a lot. Some districts are to be merged. But which ones? Of course, the future government has no official statement on this, however, quite a few speculations have emerged. I will show you the most popular.

According to the simulation there would be only 8 districts (Superdistricts, as some call them). The names may be somewhat derogatory, it is merely to coin the different areas.



- Elite Buda district. This would contain the districts 1, 2, and 12. More of an upper-class area with former districts such as the Vár.
- Northern Project district. Districts 3, 4, and 15 included. Somewhat a lower-class residency area with tall projects around.
- Újlipóca (13th district). The name would remain the same, as well as the district itself. It is so huge with its 110000 denizens that it needs no additional regions.
- Downtown. Basically, what the name suggests. Districts 5, 6, 7, and 8 are to be put in the melting pot. Makes sense? Definitely. Even today one may roam from one to another without noticing any difference.
- Worker’s quarters. Districts 9, 10, 19, 20. Similar to the Northern Project district, however, more specifically a working class area.
- Southern Pest. Uniting districts 17, 18, 23. This landscape shows more of a network of towns, than an actual part of Budapest. These districts include places like Rákoscsaba, Rákoscsaba-Újtelep, Rákosfalva, however the slang just calls them Rákosborzasztó, Rákos-awful, due to their remoteness and rural qualities.
- Southern Buda and Csepel. Again, not a high class residency, though it is neither the slums. Lower-middle class residents, condos, projects, houses, suburbs. Presently known as districts 11, 21, 22.
- Eastern Pest. The true suburbs, the vast greens of districts 14 and 16 could be drawn together. Home to the upper-middle class.


This is one simulation, there are many others. Again, nobody is certain of the future, how the map will be rewritten, if it is going to be rewritten. But change is needed. Until then let us enjoy our homes as they are.

Chapter 8

XXI. District.

Csepel. Red Csepel. If you google it you’ll probably get a bunch of links that will lead you to various pages on motorcycles, bicycles and engines. This is no coincidence. Even with Hungarian Google you are more likely to find pictures of good ol’ bike riding folk than the actual district. The reason is quite simple: It was here where the Csepel branded bikes were created. Not only bikes, though. During the communism Csepel became the heavy industrial center of Budapest; it had the widest range of products in Central-eastern Europe. Some of the products manufactured here even made it to Tibet. Csepel bikes are still popular today, a certain kind of nostalgic air is around them.

However, the Communist regime was banished, and many of its industrial enterprises were deemed to failure. Needless to say, the heavy industry had to go, and Csepel was left without its main income source. The huge industrial park is nowadays housing several businesses. The islanders (Csepel is the only district that is situated on an island, the Csepel Island), however, seemed to have a problem of breaking away from the past. Years after the Soviet occupation the residents were known to the country as the red remnants of the previous era. Clearly, the heavy industry based economics favored this area and people of Csepel always thought of those times as the ever-lost Golden Age. Speaking of the population, it is not complicated to figure out their sociological features; they mostly consist of working class citizens. The buildings accommodate to the people; tall concrete buildings cast their shadows upon the land. Even the lights were dimmer when I visited the district; although this was just due to the weather.

Still, a subtle, yet ever-present smell of Communism is in the air. Many of the country looked like this in the 80’s. I do not mean to harm the people of Csepel, I simply can’t escape from the impression. Cultural houses, hostels for workers, tones of gray. Their isolation is probably a major factor. Although there are several bus lines leading to the city, it is still hard to overcome the natural barrier: the Danube. Csepel was only annexed to Budapest in the 50’s, before that it was a separate town; the autonomy has left its marks and can be seen even today.

The people are either looking back at the past or are hoping for a better future. They are the ones who were struck by the crisis and probably they are the ones who will benefit the last from a booming economy. They are growing impatient. As I rode the bus I saw several stickers with ultra right winged messages. The people riding on the bus read right winged material. Red Csepel is about to turn its colors.

Chapter 7

I. District.

I have a confession to make. Although I did visit the Vár (Castle) a.k.a. 1st district as a child I had only some vague and blurry memories about the Fisherman’s Bastion. I thought that it was a few streets with churches, ruins, and museums. Thus, I was greatly surprised when I had to visit the area a few weeks earlier due to business. “There are actually people living here” I gasped. In my defense, when looking at the Castle from the Pest side you can only se the spectacular panorama provided by the Matthias Church, the Buda Castle and the like; one wouldn’t guess that residents do actually live there. Nevertheless, when I learned this I instantly decided to take a few pictures.

How could I describe the atmosphere? Majestic. If we leave the crowd of tourists behind and walk into the smaller streets (not that there were that many) we can sneak a peek of the citizens’ everyday life. Only a little bit of peeking is possible; the houses are designed to conceal the owners’ properties and ward off any attempt that would jeopardize their privacy. Did this sound pompous? No wonder, the air of the district affected me as well. Nonetheless, this is a section where people live so the basic utilities are present. If it weren’t for a couple of garbage bins and the locals using them one would wonder if they just evaporate their upper class litter. Fortunately they are humans as well with earthly needs. This gave me an idea. I decided to ride to the peripheral areas of the Vár. It is always the ends that are the messiest. Needless to say, this wasn’t my brightest idea. Instead of dirt or at least some suspicious looking fellows I found beautiful view.

Of course, for poverty one needs to look on lower grounds, not in the cultural headquarters of Hungary. Be it, but is this viable? The whole district is a bubble. A shiny, colorful bubble that is fragile and prone to debacle. It has huge walls on each side, cannons are watching the landscape; though the cannons don’t work anymore, we get the message: everyone else, stay out. Were they to close the gates, they wouldn’t last. They are the light, but without anybody holding the torch high they are useless.

The view is pretty sweet, though.

Chapter 6

Budaörs

Although at the beginning I said that I would examine Budapest and describe its various properties I will derive from the well-trodden path. Nothing serious, though, Budaörs is not far from the capital, it is part of the metropolitan area of Budapest. Still, it is not strictly within the boundaries of the city.

Budaörs, Wudersch in German, is a separate town with village-like features, lying among the Buda and Csiki hills and the Tétény plateau in the Budaörs-basin. Its population is about 27000, which is the average population of a small town in Hungary, and a giant for a village. The reason why I’m still referring to its rural qualities is the atmosphere. When you enter town limits you will find that although it is a couple of kilometers from Budapest the view drastically changes. Town square with church, restaurant, and grocery store. Otherwise houses, occasionally schools, parks, and trees rule the landscape.

When I say “village” those who live in Budaörs might be offended; they may accuse me of patronizing their hometown. Nevertheless, I have no such intention. In fact, I think Budaörs is a positive example for all the other townships in Hungary. Currently, more and more settlements gain the title of a town, without any reason whatsoever. Instead of this aggressive expansionism we should concentrate on the basic values.

What are the basic values of a town? The community. Without a strong and self-aware community townships will be either annihilated (the younger generations will flee to bigger cities), or just rot in their own bog. One of the advantages of Budaörs (aside from the obvious fact that it lies in the vicinity of Budapest) is that it has residents who have a strong cultural identity. In the 18th century Schwab peasants were settled in the area. Schwabs are people of German descent and are Hungary’s second largest minority. After WWII the communist regime banished them from the land, still, some of them remained there. Once you drive through the city you will find not only Hungarian but German signs as well. There are “Heimatmusems”, museums on the German ancestry, inns and hostels owned by Germans, and separate division for them in the mayor’s office along with many other minorities.

One would think that this diversity creates tension between the citizens. Clearly, it doesn’t. The interest of Hungarians are represented as well as of any other peoples. The key is tolerance, cooperation, and hard work; that is what made Budaörs the wealthiest town of Hungary.

Chapter 5

VI./VII. District.

You may have noticed that in my posts I try to grasp the qualities, the perks of a certain district, a certain area. Some are thought to be homogenous; the vast greens of the XIV. district. Some I described as bipolar; the inner and the peripheral premises of the VIII district. In this entry, however, I try to twist a bit on the proverbial screw; I will examine a couple of blocks of buildings which represent multiple aspects at the same time.

[Disclaimer: my original intention was to write only about the VII. district, a.k.a. Erzsébetváros. Yet, as I roamed the streets and took photographs I accidentally entered the VI. district, a.k.a. Terézváros. I found that my impressions qualified for both districts so I shall give them a single entry.]

Old and new. That is how I’d summarize the atmosphere I felt when entered Erzsébetváros and then walked to Terézváros. One can gaze upon ancient houses and then out of nowhere a newly constructed apartment complex pops up. When thinking of Budapest, and especially the traditional, historical parts, one imagines richly ornamented houses which tower above the passers-by. However, as in all cities around the world, progress is inevitable. This means that the old architecture style is being replaced with modern shapes and colors.

Both Terézváros and Erzsébetváros are one of the smallest districts; however, they host the most residents. This means that they have the highest density of population in Budapest; the leader is Erzsébetváros with 29 357 per km². All the above mentioned data lead to what I call the “New-York Effect”. There are no vacant lots to build on; however, there is a demand for more and more apartments. Thus, although these walls are markers of the previous centuries they are demolished and sacrificed on the altar of progress. New, modern office buildings and condos emerge, washing away the past and making room for the future.












***



If the past-future collision is one axis on the Inner City’s coordinate system then the other axis is culture clash. The VII. district is famous of being the Jewish district in Budapest, in fact, it’s considered to be the Jewish district of Hungary. During and prior to WW II. the Jewish residents of the city were forced to live in ghettos. The ghetto was not more than 20 something blocks and one park, the outer walls were roughly equivalent to the limits of the VII. district. After the war a large portion of the Jewish community stayed among these walls, adding a unique flavor to the cultural stew.

We only need to take a walk on Dohány street and will see the largest synagogue in Eurasia and the second largest one in the world. Walking deeper into Erzsébetváros we’ll see signs of Jewish heritage; stores selling Torahs, kosher butchers, and other, smaller synagogues. What seems to be homogenous on first sight, however, turns out to be more varied under scrutiny.

On forums residents complain about the noise; the large number of pubs and their drunken patrons; the constant renovations and the disappearance of the old architectural themes. Yes, the aforementioned progress influenced the Jewish community as well. The only kosher food store that was in the vicinity was closed down recently. Sex shops and prostitutes satisfy those who seek the joys of flesh. The Turkish, the Arabs, and representatives of other Middle Eastern countries open their shops in downtown.











Solution? Accept change. It is inevitable. Everything undergoes this process, sometimes we just don’t see it. No matter how small or big, history will reshape everything; not a whole district, nor even Budapest is immune to the waves of time. Slowly, people will have understand and live with the fact that everything they knew is no more. Until then, enjoy it while you can.

Chapter 4

VIII. District.


Again. No, this is no mistake. I did intend to write a second part of this entry. If you read the previous post then you might had a feeling that something was missing. A sensation that this is perhaps not the whole story. And you were right. As I said, almost everybody has an idea of Józsefváros. To be frank, this image is not about the Palace district. It is about the dark, slummy side, the part where innocent passers-by are in danger and one may not even get out alive.

Movies, animated pictures, songs were written about this infamous part of the city, a town within the metropolis with its own rules. Is this true? Like most common places, this too has a certain kernel of truth. Of course, I may not be able to dig to the very bottom of the situation, I can still offer a show-around, though.

It is a fact that in and before the '90s there was a massive network of prostitution, however, it was eliminated with the help of public surveillance systems. Needless to say, this is something that cannot be purged out completely, but I must add that anywhere within the limits of Budapest this is a problem and this district isn't causing any more complication than any other. Earlier it was a well known fact, a principle even, that on Rákóczi square one will find dozens of prostitutes along the street. Today, one can take a midnight walk around there and will see none.

It is also a fact (and a common argument used against Budapest by non-Budapestians) that dirt and homeless people are everywhere. Both can be seen, indeed, however, homeless people are mostly appearing when free lunch is distributed on certain days and only on certain squares. Dirt... Well dirt is a something like the courtisans. All the other districts have it, moreover, all the other cities are guilty too, but everybody likes to point on the 8th district. Not to mention that Józsefváros has the biggest urban renewal program in Eastern Europe.

Does this mean that it has become a lovely little downtown? No. Definitely not. There is still loads and loads of work. The thing is with the 8th district that it does have its own sub cultural levels. Its own little, nothing-alike world. Where you may ask? Where to access? For one thing, not on the wide, sunlit roads and boulevards which where exemplified in the previous post. No, for this unique land you will have to go down alleys. Enter arcades. Go through glided corridors. Be part of it. There is this unbelievable segment of our city with a unique atmosphere. It may not be what we are used to but that's the point. If you descend to it, take a deep breath from it's somewhat foul air. You may gain valuable experience. That is all what living is about.

Chapter 3

VIII. District.

It goes by many names. Józsefváros (Josephtown), Nyolcadik kerület (8th district), Nyolcker(8th dis) Alsó-Külváros (Lower-Suburb). No matter what you call it, it all means the same. It's a big dinner table which is is designed by the finest scientists and academics, created by many tireless craftsmen, decorated by the respective amounts of Roma minority, and served on by the Chinese. For those who live here this image is quite close to reality. However, it isn't only them who seem to possess knowledge about their district.

Everybody knows, or seems to know something about it, heard tales, or know somebody who’s seen a movie about it. Being Hungary’s little melting pot, it is something we don’t otherwise have here, but because it seems very western like with its wild romanticism it evokes admiration... It’s a bit yellow, a bit sour, but its ours as a Hungarian saying goes.*
Let's get into the formal details.



It is located in the city center. It is not widely known, but in medieval times not even its westernmost streets were part of the town that stood there. Where now the Astoria stands earlier only sewers ran and waste was disposed of from the stonewalls by city guards. Of course, by that we can see that it was no wonder that in the olden times Budapest wasn't the capital of Hungary; it was a wee town, surrounded from one side by a wall and the Danube by the other. Fortunately later this area expanded and this peripheral place grew into an important segment of the city. Today it is marked by Baross street, Rákóczi road, Üllői road, Kálvin square, and Keleti (Eastern) Railway Station.

Not only did its physical dimensions expand, but also its intellectual ones.
The most ancient universities are located here, like the Eötvös Loránd University, Semmelweis University, Academy of Drama and Film, prestigious libraries, like the Metropolitan Ervin Szabó Library. Furthermore, the building of the Hungarian Radio is situated here. Not to mention the National Museum. When sending postcards one of these streets will definately be on the pictures. Truly, walking certain paths will make you feel as a cosmopolitan citizen.


If there is something which tells you about a district then it's the people who walk its streets asking you of something. If you are on the wide, sunlit streets of the 8th districts, two kinds of people may ask about your opinion: surveyors with huge cameras and tourists looking for directions with maps in their hands. Therefore the citizens of the Múzeum körút are always eager to help. Perhaps because of the proximity of the English department, maybe due to all the fancy coffeehouses, these people will surely help you. Were you to do street music in the Astoria subway, people will reward you generously and you are likely to meet all sorts of artists, producers, or simply, other street musicians.

This district serves as my second home because I'm compelled to visit it almost every day. First, I wasn't particularly happy that this smog-ridden concrete palace will be the scene of my education; however, I quickly realized that it has so much more to offer. Its parks, its avenues, its shops are all worthy of being located in downtown. The mixture of cultural and ethnical elements makes sure that one, be they tourists or not, will never cease to amaze.


*Said saying first appeared in the Hungarian film satire A tanú (The witness) and is a popular phrase ever since.

Chapter 2

XIV. District.

This is the place where I begin my journey, for this is the district where I live. If you’ve never been to the east side of the city, God forbid, if you’ve never crossed the Danube then you might have some difficulties picturing this place. Imagine a huge, flatland which is bigger than districts VI, VII, and VIII combined.

It is well-known that it serves as one of the “living-districts.” The majority of the buildings are family houses with moderately sized backyards. Whenever the ice cream truck drives by two things happen. 1.: Kids run out of the houses, 2.: The dogs go mad. The whole atmosphere is very small-town-like. To elaborate the metaphor even further I’d say the district is like its houses. People get back here at evenings to have a rest from all day’s work. It is quiet, it has loads of backyards, its air is refreshing.

On the other hand, it doesn’t offer any entertainment, and one has to travel quite a lot to get to the office quarter. Its greatest “town center” is on the Örs vezér square, and that tells something; one of the major fun factors is a trip to the international furniture store. Which, I must add, is quite fun, though this is probably my institutionalized mind speaking.

It is not a surprise that the people who walk these streets are like hard working fathers, enjoying their Sunday afternoons. Pedestrians do have a tendency of slowly lumbering from one side of the street to another. Drivers actually give people the opportunity to cross the road; sadly, this is a feat that must be written down as a curiosity.

There are huge neighbor communities, something which is unseen in downtown. I remember, years earlier there was an assault on a woman not far away from here; for weeks the people would talk about it in the nearby pubs, shops, and bus stops. For some people this could be irritating. For those who seek a taste of rural life in the proximity it is perfect.

Chapter 1, in which I introduce Us to Ourselves

Although I was born in Budapest, I lived my life prior to my university studies in a little town, Gyöngyös. Like most of the people who live in the countryside, I too thought that our capitol was a homogenous contraption, a huge, evenly designed machine; I also assumed that the citizens think in the same fashion, in a Budapest way. When I needed to move here I soon realized that instead of a clockwork, this city is more like you and me, in the sense that it is, in fact, an organic creature. It breathes, it observes, it thinks. Just like the living body, this city has different parts, strongly connected to eachother, with different functions. It has the same needs. And vices. It needs fresh air, although it constantly exhales poisonous gases. It craves food and water and it turns them into waste. It needs other cities to communicate with, for it is a social creature. Let’s face it: we are not in Budapest, we are Budapest.


What I mean with this farfetched metaphor is that this thing we live in has different areas which have different purposes. In the future, I shall examine each district with the accuracy of an anatomist, trying to identify the vital spots, those places which give a certain kind of characteristic, and the boundaries where these different parts meet and hopefully clash. I trust that instead of a Frankenstein’s monster I will find something magnificent.